ISSUES,INSIGHTS AND COLOURFUL MOMENTS-FROM THE DESK OF AN ENGLISH AUTHOR.
August 2024. STONES.
Having noted a facet of the Roman way of life just recently by drawing attention to an example of their architectural remains in Volterra, it must be pointed out that a great deal of the original city - that of its Etruscan heritage - has been almost erased from history. Some cellar like construction beneath later structural remains can be found, but a complete building for human habitation is nowhere to be seen. Volterra, from nearly all aspects, is now a mediaeval city. However, its name is certainly much older. Volo is the Latin expression to fly, and in the valley below, runs the river Era. That, however, is too simplistic, and no doubt erroneous. Volterra arrived on this site approximately three thousand years ago with its original appellation of Velathri, stamped on its coins. Perhaps it’s true: “money talks”!
Volterra, seemingly, is almost a forgotten city, not least because its greatness was too great in the cantankerous world that descended round it in the 5th centuy BC. The rapidly developing Roman civilisation had been relatively benign when they knocked on the door in c.40 BC, and for this they were indebted to the Consul Cicero who held this isolated city in high regard.
As a matter of interest, the Etruscans were never a unified people. Each of the twelve great Etruscan cities represents a separate nation with its own peculiar aspects on politics and religion. However, a significant factor is that they were all great builders with a shared lineage, no doubt inherited from a three-hundred-year sojourn in Egypt where they apparently acquired a knowledge of structural matters assisting in the construction of pyramids. How did that come about? There is some evidence that the Etruscans were a piratical maritime people issuing out of the Adriatic and rewarded by a Pharaoh for assistance in one of the eastern power struggles taking place against a competing Pharaoh. A solitary inscription on a pyramid seemed to historically bear this out. If that was so, they were said to put this skill to good purpose, being subsequently employed by the Greeks to build one of the walls round the Acropolis. As little information on this construction exists, we can only say the supposed cyclopean wall still stands, just as it was constructed.
However, these walls pale into significance when you compare it with the 5000-year-old stones of Stonehenge in Wiltshire. The very same problem must have faced these Neolithic builders. How did they shape the stone before moving the 20 + ton menhirs from the original site and then erect them? A considerable amount of research appears to demonstrate that once the stone form was executed, they rolled them on logs! Indeed, a practical experiment proved the possibility. To cap the upright stones, they are said to have built a soil hill enclosing the two vertical stones enabling the horizontal lintel to be dragged up into place.
Returning to Volterra, a city surrounded by “two” walls - one you can see, and part of the largest examples remaining almost out of sight, and not quite where you’d expect it to be. For this, history blames the Medici, who having accepted the surrender of the city in 1472 after a two-year siege, reduced it to the present size by purloining a great quantity of the stones from the walls for the aggrandisement of Florence. From that point on the walls of Volterra became a handy quarry for all and sundry. It should be noted that what made these sixth century B.C. Etruscan walls so valuable was the bottom section, displaying its pyramidical history of form - perfect cubes - for perfect walls, some that have lasted for nearly three thousand years. It should be noted that though the walls were sometimes 6-7 metres high, the top courses were built of a more manageable smaller size, given that the bottom courses could not be undermined by an attacking force. One other suggested reason for the size of the bottom section, was to give stability in the absence of the yet undiscovered use of cement. Credit for its appearance being given to the Romans, who eventually used a cement in Volterra where work was needed. The photograph of an abandoned Etruscan stone wall, and still present Roman stonework in the accompanying arch, demonstrates the advances made in stone building techniques.
However, it also illustrates the colossal enterprise of the Etruscans in building a wall that enclosed the city for approximately four and a half miles. (7km.) Only two gateways remain in some order, virtually opposite each other, though approximately a mile apart. One is the restored Porta all‘Arco, the other, the sadly neglected, Porta Diana. However, the latter is, though not complete, in the matter of construction, somewhat more interesting. In a sense it is the skeleton of a gate, exposing the massive stones that formed it, and sadly now without a top. The gentleman in the photograph, taken in the 1920’s, gives some idea of the scale.
The stone in Volterra and environs is a volcanic sand stone called Panchino Calcarenite found from the coast of Livorno, and in the Volterra area, along with copper at Montecatini Val di Cecina. One could, perhaps presume, they dragged the stone in the same manner as the Egyptians - on sledges over paths of slaked lime! On the other hand, how they dragged such stones up a steep 9km hill beggars’ belief. One must remember ‘the hill’ which deterred so many invaders! I think a case could be made for them digging the material up as they went along, as the stone is often no more than 3 metres below the surface. But I wouldn’t put any money on that either! Iron tools were unheard of and it has been suggested that the shaping was done with copper saws kept cool by cutting in water, and teeth sharp, with the accompanying aid of quartz sand. Experiments have also shown that wood inserted into the stone and then kept wet would expand enough to crack the stone.
However, back to Volterra, fortunate in having good examples demonstrating what these massive walls were like. Difficult to find, but persevere, because they’re actually right under your nose.
If you find yourself in Volterra they’re within walking distance. You exit from the Porta San Francesco, crossing the road and down to where the road splits round a tidy seating area over an ‘ancient fonte’(fountain). Take the left-hand road and continue down past a hotel to a “T” junction. Turn right, and immediately on the left, you will find a lane, take this, and on your right are the last remaining complete Etruscan walls. Sadly, it’s a dead-end after a few hundred yards, but impressive it still is when you consider it was once over four miles! Some odd Roman patching here and there, but it doesn’t distract from the amazing building skills of the Etruscan race.
Sadly, in this ‘Modern Culture’ little respect is shown for our valuable, and informative past. The matter is further emphasized by so many historical stones, in one form or another, both discovered and undiscovered, that remain only to out-live time, weeds, and sheer neglect, which have not destroyed them! Albeit, Italy is said to be home to around sixty percent of our World-Wide Monuments and Treasures besides STONES! Consider, that in Italy, practically every time serious excavations occur, even more historic archaeological treasures are revealed!
That is, indeed, a huge financial responsibility!